A Beautiful Lake and A Long Drive

We had planned to turn south toward Pennsylvania yesterday, but this trip is all about seizing the moment and altering plans as the mood strikes us.  And that’s exactly what we did yesterday.  Tim had second thoughts about leaving New York without seeing a bit more of the state, so we ventured north toward Lake George in the Adirondacks.  Lake George is a large lake on the eastern edge of the Adirondacks and is one of the prettiest lakes in the region.  We settled into a little cottage not far from the lake when we arrived so Tim could watch afternoon football.

This morning we drove farther north and circled back around the west side of Lake George.  It turned into a beautiful day after the early fog burned off, and we were still able to see quite a few fall colors as we drove along the lake.  The views across the lake were gorgeous.



Looking Across Lake George



A Cove Along the Shore of Lake George

We made a detour to Bolton Landing to take a look at the Sagamore, one of the grand historic hotels that now also serves as a conference center.  The hotel is beautifully preserved in a wonderful setting.



The Sagamore With Its Beautiful Flowers



The Sagamore Grounds

Today was the longest driving day since Tim arrived – 272 miles.  We wanted to make it to Pennsylvania and the Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, which is just over state line.  Therefore, we spent a lot of time on the interstate.  It really wasn’t so bad.  I wouldn’t like to make a habit of it, but every once in a while, we just need to get from Point A to Point B.

On typical days we drive less than 100 miles.  Occasionally we will hit 200 miles, but not often.  We’re in no hurry, except to outrun the cold weather, so why rush?

We encountered more destruction from Hurricane Irene and Tropical Storm Lee as we drove south through New York State.  As we crossed into Pennsylvania, it was even more evident.  We were less than fifteen miles from our campground when the road into the Delaware Water Gap area was blocked off.  We had to make a detour around and later found out that a major failure of a section of the road had been discovered just within the last few days. 

Apparently there is a lot of damage to the area where we will be visiting.  We’ll see tomorrow.  In the meantime, we are enjoying a beautiful campsite at Dingmans Campground, which is operated by a concessionaire of the National Park Service.  It even has hookups and is practically empty.  The only way it could be better is if we could have internet and/or TV reception.

Our Campsite at Dingmans Campground

Opulence and Modesty

Our visit to the Hudson River Valley has been an immersion in history and architecture.  There are so many historic house museums in this area that it would take a month to see them all.  Instead, we narrowed our focus to those that are units of the National Park Service.  That was an easy way to pare down the list.

Tim and Kitty at Our Campsite Last Night at Margaret Lewis Norrie State Park

Yesterday we visited the home of Franklin Delano Roosevelt, and today we toured Eleanor Roosevelt’s home, Val-Kill, as well as the Vanderbilt Mansion.  What a contrast between the two families’ houses.

We started at the Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site, one of the grand “cottages” of the Gilded Age.  This was the home of Frederick Vanderbilt, grandson of Cornelius Vanderbilt, and his wife Louise.  By Vanderbilt standards, this is a modest home.  Compared to FDRs home, however, it is huge, opulent and showy.  Like FDR’s home, it was occupied only during the spring and fall months. 



Vanderbilt Mansion



Entrance Drive to the Vanderbilt Mansion



View of the Vanderbilt Mansion from the Hudson River

It is an amazing house, although I prefer the exterior to the interior.  Both Tim and I did admire the beautiful green marble in the entrance hall, however.  The property includes one mile of frontage on the Hudson River, and the views from the grounds are incredible.

Tim and Sarah at the Vanderbilt Mansion



Hudson River View from the Vanderbilt Mansion

The Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site, known as Val-Kill, could not have been more different than the Vanderbilt Mansion.  Val-Kill is a modest home that reflects Eleanor Roosevelt’s personality.  It is very homey, with low ceilings, paneled walls and comfortable furniture.  Photographs that tell the story of her life, as well as photos of visitors to the home, decorate the walls.



Val-Kill

This house was her retreat, and it was in this house that Eleanor spent her days working.  It was also her residence after FDRs death until her own death in 1962. 


The Stone Cottage, the Original Residence on the Property Adjacent to Val-Kill

I left Hyde Park, New York, feeling that I now have a real understanding of Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt, their lives and contributions to the world.  I probably learned more from visiting these historic sites than I have from most others that I’ve been to.

Tim and I drove north from Hyde Park, through Rhinebeck, and we stopped at Bard College in Annandale-on-Hudson to see the Fisher Center for the Performing Arts, designed by Frank Gehry and somewhat reminiscent of his Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain.  It was not open for tours, but the exterior was worth the visit.



Fisher Center for the Performing Arts at Bard College



We Stopped Here for Apple Cider Doughnuts, Apple Crisp and Apple Cider

The day was slipping away, so we crossed the Hudson River and turned south.  We are staying at a decrepit campground south of Kingston that seems to be falling apart.  The hookups and bathrooms have been somewhat updated, but that’s about it.  It almost reminds me of a campground junkyard, with all of the discarded and broken items lying around.  Oh well, we needed hookups tonight, the campground was open and the location was good.  We’ll survive one night.

Tea and FDR

To me, the Litchfield Hills region of northwest Connecticut is one of the prettiest in New England.  I love the charming towns, the meandering rivers, the beautiful lakes and the gently rolling hills dotted with historic houses and farms.  The Litchfield Hills in the fall can be even more amazing.  Unfortunately, the fall color has been pretty much a bust this year.  Don’t get me wrong, there are still lovely trees to be seen, but all of the rainfall in the last month has led to a predominance of muted colors, or no color at all.

We nevertheless enjoyed our drive and checked out Kent Falls State Park and the West Cornwall covered bridge.  What I enjoyed the most, however, was lunch.  Tim commented this afternoon that some of our best times have been at lunch, but today’s was especially memorable.



Kent Falls State Park



Kent Falls



West Cornwall Covered Bridge

Tim had suggested last night that we make a loop to the north through the small town of Salisbury.  Little did he know that one of my favorite New England restaurants is in Salisbury.  The Chaiwalla Tea House is not exactly a restaurant, but it serves the most wonderful food in addition to a wide selection of fine teas.  I still remember the tomato pie from a visit at least fifteen to twenty years ago, and that’s what I ordered.  It was as good as I remembered.  Tim had the crab salad, and we also tried Silver Tips tea, an extremely rare Indian estate tea that is hand-rolled in Tamilnadu.  Dessert was sinful, as we sampled five “small” portions of assorted fruit crumbles, bread pudding and a banana cake with chocolate frosting. 

As much as we relished the food and tea, we especially enjoyed chatting with Mary, the owner of the Chaiwalla Tea House.  It just so happens that Tim and I are living her dream – traveling throughout the United States in a small RV.  She was not familiar with Class Bs so we gave her a tour.  She loved the looks, finishes and size of the Sprinter and seemed to be sold on it.  I certainly hope she will be able to take the kind of trip that Tim and I are so fortunate to be doing.



Mary and Her Sinful Desserts

We said a fond farewell to Connecticut and made our way to another beautiful area, the Hudson River Valley of New York and Hyde Park.  Here, we spent the afternoon immersed in the life and times of Franklin D. Roosevelt.  The Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt National Historic Site preserves the home where Roosevelt grew up and spent much of his adult life.  



Springwood, the Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt

 The ranger who led our tour did an incredible job despite the very large group she had to deal with.  We learned about FDRs life and his domineering mother Sara.  This was Sara’s house, and she ruled it.  FDR and Eleanor lived in the house after their marriage, and it must have been especially difficult for Eleanor.  No wonder she escaped to her own cottage, Val-Kill, whenever she could.  We’re looking forward to going there tomorrow.


Sarah Visiting With Eleanor and FDR

Since neither Tim nor I had ever been to a presidential library, we also decided to visit the Franklin D. Roosevelt Presidential Library and Museum next door.  This is America’s first presidential library and the only one used by a sitting president.  The museum features exhibits about FDR and Eleanor, as well as the Great Depression, the New Deal and World War II.  It was well-worth the visit and filled in some of the missing pieces of FDRs life.


FDRs Desk From the Oval Office



FDRs Ford Phaeton

Tonight we’re camping at the beautiful Margaret Lewis Norrie State Park, which is located along the Hudson River, just up the road from Hyde Park.



Canada Geese Resting On Their Way South



Through the Adirondacks to the Northeast Kingdom

What started out as a foggy morning evolved into brilliant blue skies and a gorgeous autumn day.  A detour to Lake Placid, New York, along scenic byways seemed in order.  The higher in elevation we climbed, the more color we saw.  The town of Lake Placid is just as charming as I remember, and Kevin and I walked throughout the downtown area and bought multiple flavors of popcorn.



On the Way to Lake Placid

In the Adirondacks



Mirror Lake in Lake Placid

Kevin’s request for the day was a crossing from New York to Vermont on the Lake Champlain ferry.  On the way to the dock, we stopped at Ausable Chasm, an early tourist attraction featuring a deep gorge with waterfalls. 


Ausable Chasm

We arrived at the ferry dock with plenty of time to wander around and chat with fellow passengers.  The Kat Karrier continues to garner plenty of attention.  Her first boat ride was a total success.



Waiting for the Ferry



On the Water



I'm Not Seasick



Kevin on the Ferry

After docking in Burlington, Vermont, we had time for only a quick overview of the downtown area.  When Kevin got out to take photographs, several college students on the sidewalk where I stopped began to drool over the Kat Karrier.  They asked me, “Is this a personal vehicle?  Are you on the road?” and commented “I’ve never seen anything like this in my life.”  I continue to marvel at the reaction of most men to the RV.  If I were single, I would have no trouble meeting men in this thing.  Thankfully, though, I’m not.

We couldn’t travel in northern Vermont without stopping at Ben and Jerry’s.  It was amusing to see all of the flavors that never hit the stores, and we took with us “Late Night Snack,” which is vanilla bean ice cream with a salty caramel swirl and fudge covered potato chip clusters.  Yum.



Ben and Jerry's Cowmobile



Who's Ben, Who's Jerry?

After a stop in Montpelier to photograph the Vermont State House, it was time to find a campground.  We pulled into an iffy one adjacent to an RV sales lots.  If we had stayed, Kevin was certain that we would have been sold by morning as we were the nicest RV on the lot.



Vermont's State House at Montpelier

A bit farther north in the middle of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom was a much more suitable choice, the Groton Forest Road Campground.  For a change, there were no mosquitos, and we could enjoy a bit of time outside.  Kevin even had a chance to bond with Kitty.  I think Kitty misses a man’s voice and has been very affectionate with Kevin, who’s not a cat person at all.  Kevin says that she has her “purr motor” on when she’s with him.  Don’t you just love his “Kevinisms”?



Kevin and Kitty



An Apple a Day

Rain, Rain, Go Away

Kevin must have brought the rain with him from Portland.  It’s rainy, a bit foggy and a little gloomy.  Rain has never stopped Kevin before, so we’re up and on the road in a northerly path toward the Adirondacks.

A sign for the Saratoga National Historical Park caught my attention, and we detoured east for a visit.  The battles of Saratoga were much more significant than I had realized in deciding the outcome of the Revolutionary War.  The American victory here forced the surrender of a major British army and was one of the most decisive in history.  The visitor center has a great 3-D map of the battlefield, with accompanying audio and LED lights that illustrate the battles.



Saratoga National Historical Park



Saratoga National Historical Park

The weather made the day a perfect one for chores, and Kevin and I began a search for a laundromat in Glens Falls, New York.  When we asked Lucy, my somewhat schizophrenic GPS unit, for assistance, she led us to the middle of an upscale residential neighborhood.  Did she want us to ring someone’s doorbell and ask to use the washer and dryer?  This is not the first time Lucy has led us astray, and I am starting to seriously doubt her abilities.

We arrived at a nice campground in Schroon Lake, New York, but were immediately attached by mosquitos.  Mosquitos seem to be a theme of this trip.  I expect mosquitos in other parts of the country, but not here.  Apparently, Hurricane Irene has left behind a belated, stinging reminder of her destruction.

Getting A Charge

Today I said “good-bye” to Jane, and I did so reluctantly.  It was wonderful to spend a week with her, and I will be forever grateful for her joining me on the second leg of the trip.

After I dropped her off at the Albany, New York, airport, I had to attend to the RV.  The coach batteries had not been charging properly the last few days, which meant that we could only stay at campgrounds with electric hookups.

I ended up at Albany RV, and was taken care of immediately.  I felt so fortunate since I’d read such horror stories of people on the road waiting for days, or even weeks, for service.  The initial diagnosis was that the two coach batteries were bad, which didn’t make much sense since Van City RV had just checked them out one week earlier.  The technicians were sure, however, and promised to honor the warranty.  I was ok with two new batteries and told them to go ahead.



Albany RV

Unfortunately, when they returned from the Interstate battery dealer, they told me that the batteries were good, just discharged.  They checked the converter, which seemed to be ok, and determined that there must be an unknown draw on the batteries.  They also informed me that I would need to take the RV to a Leisure Travel Vans dealer for service.  Great!  The closest one was in Pennsylvania.  That’s the only downside to owning a Class B.  There are few dealers that carry and service Class Bs, particularly Sprinters.  The guys apologized for not being able to fix the problem, suggested that I stay in their lot for at least an hour to charge the batteries and try to leave the RV plugged in for at least 24 hours.  Staying in one place for a full day wouldn’t be possible for at least a week, so I limped away after getting a partial charge.  I’ll just keep looking for campgrounds with hookups and hope for the best.


Getting a Charge

The good news is that my friend Kevin from Portland arrived tonight.  He’s covering the last leg of the trip from Albany, New York, to Portland, Maine.  Kevin had flown to Boston on Saturday and spent the weekend there.  Can you believe that he won an iPad in a bar?  Some people have all the luck.

The Crack of the Bat

Although we started the day at the Erie Canal, today was all about baseball.  Jane is a huge baseball fan (she’s a Yankees fan even though she is from Providence, Rhode Island), and I was raised in a baseball-loving family (the Orioles, of course, since I’m from Baltimore).  Cooperstown was not too far away, and we just had to go there.



Lock at Mays Point, Erie Canal

Fifteen Miles on the Erie Canal

Sarah at Mays Point

Cooperstown is a wonderful historic town with a thriving main street and side streets featuring grand houses.  Even if you don’t want to visit the National Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum, the town is a worthwhile destination.  We did both, although the focus was on the Hall of Fame.  Jane heard the “crack of the bat,” and we watched the movie and toured the exhibits.



Jane and Friends

My favorite part of the experience was watching the men who stopped at every display in the museum, trying to absorb it all.  Watching them walk into the Hall of Fame itself, however, was the best.  To them, it appeared to be a shrine, and each one approached his favorite “saint” reverently.  The men seemed to know exactly where to go to find the players they were looking for.

It's All About the Orioles

And the Yankees

Open House

It seems like many resort towns virtually close down after Labor Day.  Geneva-On-the-Lake is no exception.  The Sunrise Café was still open, however, and we decided to stop for breakfast.  This is the type of restaurant I love to find and is one that has probably been featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.”  Corn pancakes, with whole kernels of corn, were delicious.  The motto of the café is “Eat, Pay, Leave,” which is exactly what we did.  What a wonderful way to start the morning.



Sunrise Cafe, Geneva-On-the-Lake, Ohio

Today was another long driving day on the interstate, and breaks were confined to rest stops.  Our first break was particularly memorable.  When I pulled into the parking area, I noticed another Class B Sprinter van.  We’ve seen quite a few on this trip, many more than I had expected, but this one was right in front of me.

The owner was standing nearby, so I approached him.  His Sprinter was converted by Sportsmobile, which customizes units to the owner’s specifications.  He gave me a tour and showed me the special features he had requested, including solar panels.  He had even camped in the van at -55° (his wife had more sense and stayed home).

I returned the favor and offered a tour of the Kat Karrier.  As the gentleman was admiring the interior finishes, several other people walked up.  Jane, who was outside with the cat (and who almost gave her away to a woman who said that she was taking the cat), had told them I would love to give a tour.  So we had open house in the parking lot at the rest stop.  I do, in fact, enjoy letting people see the RV.  I remember when I was initially looking at Class Bs, I would practically stalk the owners of any Class B I would come across.  I always hoped they would talk to me and possibly let me have a peek.  So many people are intrigued by this type of vehicle, and I’m happy to help educate them.

Jane and I ended the day at Women’s Rights National Historical Park in Seneca Falls, New York.  We never seem to have enough time for an in-depth visit at any of the parks we visit, and here we only were able to tour the exhibits before closing time.  The exhibits here are inspiring and made me appreciate anew the opportunities that I sometimes take for granted.



Jane and I and the Women

Women's Rights National Historical Park

After a few wrong turns and accusations that a certain passenger could not read a map (sorry, Jane), we arrived at the Oak Orchard Marina and Campground.  This was a wonderful site at Mays Point on the Erie Canal.  The mosquitos almost carried us away, however, and there was no way to sit outside.  We couldn’t even open a door without a swarm invading the RV.  Not to worry.  Jane the Hunter attached with a vengeance and determination I had never seen and managed to kill them all.  However, she kept her weapon of choice, an orange fly swatter, close by her side all night just in case.

View From Our Campsite at Oak Orchard Marina and Campground