The Nez Perce Have Always Been Here

We took advantage of our waterfront campsite this morning when the sun came out again, and Kitty made good use of the bike path that extends along the river.  We left the state of Washington behind today and crossed into Idaho.  We really enjoyed our stay in the Pacific Northwest, and it’s definitely on our list of places to return to.

Another Beautiful View

Kitty and Tim Walking Along the River

Our first stop in Idaho was the Nez Perce National Historical Park.  This is not your typical national park.  The park consists of thirty-eight sites scattered throughout four states.  It is a park about a people for all people.  The park tells the story of the Nez Perce, their history and culture and their interactions with others.  It is a noble story, but also a sad one that culminated in the Nez Perce War of 1877.

Nez Perce National Historical Park

The park contains a wonderful museum with amazing art and artifacts, including the oldest known Nez Perce objects in existence.  After leaving the visitor center we passed several sites on the Nez Perce Trail, including the Camus Prairie, which was once covered with camas lilies, a major food source for the Nez Perce.  Although we saw no trace of camas there, we did spy several fields of this pretty blue flower elsewhere.

Camus Prairie

Camus Lilies in Bloom

We traveled south through beautiful countryside and climbed in elevation.  Wheat fields covered much of the land, and I enjoyed that beautiful green color for much of the day.  I think wheat might be my favorite spring crop.  Fields of yellow mustard were also quite a sight.

Beautiful Countryside

Fields of Mustard

Unusual Roadside Attractions - The Dog Is a Bed and Breakfast!

We descended the White Bird Grade, an incredibly steep mountain road, and were amazed to see the old road which was even steeper with dozens of switchbacks.  That road was an engineering feat when it was constructed in 1915 and served as Idaho’s north-south highway until the current road was completed in 1975.  I love mountain roads, but I was glad we were driving the new road.

An overlook on the White Bird Grade provided an expansive view of White Bird Battlefield.  On June 17, 1877, the first battle of the Nez Perce War was fought here.  Although the battle was a victory for the Nez Perce, it was the start of a five-month journey in an effort to elude the U.S. Army.  The hopes of the Nez Perce to find sanctuary in Canada fell short when the army defeated them at Bear Paw in Montana.  Chief Joseph surrendered and was sent into exile.

White Bird Battlefield

Looking Down at White Bird

Paradise in the Pacific Northwest

The San Juan Islands are often referred to as Paradise in the Pacific Northwest.  Tim and I found out why during our brief two-day visit to San Juan Island, the largest of the four islands served by the Washington State Ferries.  There are actually 172 named islands in the San Juans, and these islands are a world apart.  The San Juans are known for both their natural attractions and their distinctive island experiences. 

The ferry deposited us in Friday Harbor, the largest town on San Juan Island.  It’s a quaint seaport town that seems to thrive on the ferry traffic that inundates the town on weekends.  Although the town offers everything a visitor to the islands may be looking for, it is not too touristy.  We were happy to find a local hangout where we enjoyed fresh fish and scallops.

Arriving in Friday Harbor

There is even a national park on San Juan Island.  San Juan Island National Historical Park tells the story of a little-known episode in American history often dubbed the Pig War.  During the mid-nineteenth century, the ownership of the San Juan Islands was undetermined, with both the United States and Great Britain claiming title.  The two countries almost went to war when an American farmer killed a British pig.  Cooler heads prevailed, however, and the two nations resolved the dispute peacefully without resorting to violence.  Now isn’t that a great lesson to teach at a park?

We relived the Pig War on the self-guided history walk around the former American Camp.  We walked through the parade ground where two original buildings are preserved, and we also admired the beautiful views of the Strait of San Juan de Fuca and Griffin Bay across one of this region’s last remaining natural prairies.  Even Mount Baker was visible in the distance. 

Parade Ground at American Camp

Prairie Landscape at American Camp

Jakles Lagoon at American Camp

Lighthouse at Cattle Point

We wanted to see more of the island, so we drove to the west side where we encountered pastoral landscapes and more stunning water views.  We stopped at San Juan County Park where we had planned to camp.  I guess our luck had to run out sometime, however.  For the first time on our trip, we were turned away.  We missed the last RV site by five minutes!  It would have been a great site with water views through the trees, but we were able to find another campground not too far away.

Roche Harbor is the other town on San Juan Island, and it is a quaint, historic seaside village.  We visited the town this morning, and I actually thought it was more interesting than Friday Harbor.  It was surprising to find the ruins of several structures associated with the area’s lime kiln history preserved as part of the landscape.  The arts are also a big deal here, and a large sculpture park on the edge of the village intersperses rotating sculptures with a nature display.  Hopefully, all of the ongoing development we saw will not destroy the unique character that makes Roche Harbor special.

Roche Harbor

Remains of the Lime Kiln Industry

Sculpture Garden

One of the favorite springtime activities in the San Juans is a whale watching tour.  We arrived back in Friday Harbor before noon, just in time to get on one of the boats.  It was cold and damp today, and I was glad we could sit inside the boat to watch for the marine mammals that frequent the area.  On our three hour tour, we saw harbor porpoises, sea lions and, finally, a pod of minke whales.  These whales are relatively small and stay underwater for a long time, so they are often harder to spot than the larger orca whales.  We did have a fun time trying to guess where the minkes would surface, and we watched for them for quite a while.  We never did see the resident orcas that live in the San Juans year-round, so we got a rain check for a future whale watching tour.  I guess that means we’ll have to come back to the San Juan Islands.  I wouldn’t object to that.

All Aboard for a Whale Watching Adventure

Sea Lions Basking on the Rocks

Minke Whale Surfacing for Just a Second or Two

Tim and I had debated about whether to stay in the San Juans and visit another island, but we decided we’d better return to the mainland.  We found out just how difficult it can be to catch the ferry on the weekend when we were informed that the 4:15 pm ferry was full.  We would have to wait for the 6:25 pm instead.  We took advantage of our extra time in Friday Harbor by visiting the whale museum where we learned more about these majestic creatures than we ever thought possible. 

The best part about having to wait for the later ferry was being put at the front of the line.  We ended up in the front row on the ferry with an unobstructed view of the water and passing islands.  How cool was that!  Parked next to us was a couple with a yellow cat that had made his home on the dashboard.  Kitty eyed him, but decided she really wasn’t interested.

We Were First to Board the Ferry

The View of the Islands and Passing Ferry Would Have Been Better
If It Hadn't Been Raining

Who's That Kitty Watching Me?

Into Hill Country

We left McKinney Falls State Park this morning and decided to detour through Hill Country on our way to Big Bend National Park.  Hill Country is one of the most popular travel destinations in Texas, and for good reason.  It’s a beautiful part of the state, with rolling green hills, charming small towns, dramatic scenic drives and significant historic sites.  Although we would only spend the day driving through, we ended up with a great overview of what the region has to offer.

We made it a point to stop in Johnson City at the LyndonB. Johnson National Historical Park.  The park preserves LBJs boyhood home in Johnson City, as well as the LBJ Ranch.  Like other “presidential” parks that we’ve visited, this one does a wonderful job of telling LBJs story and how the Texas Hill Country figured so prominently in his life.  Lady Bird Johnson’s role is also a major focus of the park. 

LBJs Boyhood Home

Lady Bird's Role Is Emphasized

We’ve spoken of connections on this trip, and how sites in one locale may directly relate to someplace we may see months later.  Such was the case here.  In January Tim and I visited Alabama and drove the path of the Selma to Montgomery march, which led to the passage of the Voting Rights Act.  It was President Johnson who was so instrumental in pushing through key civil rights legislation, including the Voting Rights Act.  It’s too bad that his role in the Vietnam War often overshadows this and such other major accomplishments as the War on Poverty and his Great Society.  I especially appreciate and admire Lady Bird’s role in the conservation of the natural environment.  Her beautification efforts are still felt to this day.

Lady Bird Probably Enjoyed Texas Mountain Laurel

We made our way west through the peach orchards, where the trees were just starting to bloom, and pecan groves and then took a scenic route through some of the most remote and spectacular parts of the Hill Country.  The serpentine drive along the South Fork Guadalupe River was my favorite, until we reached the sheer cliffs and deep gorges of the Frio and Sabinal Rivers.  It was quite the roller-coaster ride, and we often had the roads to ourselves.

South Fork Guadalupe River

Along the River

Unique Fences Line the Roads

It Floods in these Parts of Texas

Limestone Walls Frame the Road

Looking Down on a Peaceful Valley

We decided to spend the night at Garner State Park, another beautiful park along the Frio River.  It was quiet here tonight, with no television, phone or internet service.  This post will have to wait until we get a signal.  For the moment, however, I’m enjoying being disconnected.

Frio River at Garner State Park

Trees and Roots Along the Frio River

Looking for a Cajun Barn

Tim and I took advantage of our unplanned weekend in Lafayette, Louisiana, by relaxing, doing a few errands and continuing our exploration of Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve.  One of the park’s six sites happens to be in Lafayette.  Located along the Vermillion River, the Acadian Cultural Center interprets the history, customs and language of the Acadians who settled Louisiana.

After watching a rather heavy-handed movie about the history of the Acadians and their exile from Nova Scotia, we spent a bit of time talking with the ranger on duty.  She was a delight, and we had a wonderful conversation about theories of interpretation and ways to engage diverse audiences.  I hope she is able to implement some of the ideas that she has developed.

We really have met some of the most enthusiastic, knowledgeable and dedicated rangers at parks throughout the country.  I’m convinced that the National Park Service has some of the best employees of any government agency, or any private company for that matter.  Some of our best conversations on this trip have been with these people.

Spring Is Arriving in Southern Louisiana

This morning we detoured south from Lafayette to Abbeville, Louisiana, to check out the town that figured prominently in the project that brought me to Rocky Mountain National Park in the first place.  That project involved preparing a nomination to the National Register of Historic Places for a barn on the west side of the park.  The barn was built in 1942 by Frank Godchaux, Jr., who lived in Abbeville.  Talk about a small world.  I never thought I would visit the area that influenced the design of that historic barn.

The barn in Rocky Mountain National Park is a local adaptation of the Cajun barns that are found almost exclusively in southern Louisiana.  Frank Godchaux sketched a barn that was familiar to him, and we wanted to see if we could find any barns around Abbeville that might have influenced the design.

Little Buckaroo Ranch Barn in Rocky Mountain National Park

We really didn’t find much, since we didn’t take the time to drive many of the back roads, but we saw a few barns with somewhat similar characteristics.  This certainly was far from a professional survey, just a fun “look-see.”  Even though we came up short, we had a good time looking more closely at the buildings in the landscape.

This Isn't Exactly What We're Looking For

This One Is a Little Closer

We continued our drive through southern Louisiana and passed hundreds of rice fields that happened to be flooded from the recent rains.  We drove through Gueydan, the duck capital of America and made our way back north to Lake Charles and the oil refineries.  We then crossed the state line into Texas.  Yes, Texas!  We are actually in Texas.

Fuzzy Ducks

What Happened to the Scenery?

We actually arrived in Texas earlier than we had originally thought.  Because the crazy weather of the last two weeks had caused us to reroute and then delay our trip, we came to the conclusion this past weekend that we would not make it back to Memphis or to Arkansas.  I’m sad about that, since I had really wanted to visit there, but we’ll save that part of the country for another time.  

We're in Texas!

I know it sounds odd that we “don’t have time” to go somewhere, but we actually have a schedule to keep at the moment.  We are meeting Kevin in Austin, Texas, on March 3, and need to finish seeing what we want to see in east Texas and the Hill Country before then.  Because, after our weekend in Austin, we have reservations in Big Bend National Park starting on March 7.  It’s very odd having a deadline again, since we’re used to doing what we want, when we want, but it will be fun to visit with Kevin again.

Wild Weather in Acadiana

Tim and I had a great time in New Orleans, but it was time to leave yesterday morning. Thousands more people were starting to arrive for the height of the Mardi Gras festivities, and the crowds and traffic were becoming a nightmare.  We had had our fun on Thursday night and didn’t feel the need to experience any more of the madness.  Looking back on our decision today, we are even happier that we left, given the mass of severe weather that is hitting the city and forcing the rescheduling and/or rerouting of all the parades.

Kitty Wanted to Wear Her Beads Before We Left New Orleans

We took the southern route from New Orleans and drove through bayou country and the heart of the Mississippi River Delta.  This area is often referred to as Acadiana and contains some of the youngest land in North America.  It was settled in the late 1700s by French Acadians, or Cajuns, who were driven from Nova Scotia by the British.  The Cajuns were newcomers, a people apart from the French-speaking, native born Creoles, who had lived here since the founding of the Louisiana colony by France in 1699.  Both cultures have shaped this region into one like nowhere else in the world.

Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve tells the story of Louisiana’s Mississippi River Delta.  It is the most dispersed of all the parks with six sites from Eunice and Lafayette on the west to New Orleans on the east.  We stopped at the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux, where very helpful rangers explained both the geographic and cultural history of the region.

The Flowers Are Even Prettier Down Here

I Love Flowering Trees

It was there that we learned of the severe weather system that was headed our way.  We had planned to camp near New Iberia, but thought a nice hotel in Lafayette would be the best bet.  It turned out to be a wise move, as we watched tornado-producing clouds pass outside our window this morning.  Six severe weather alerts, from possible tornados to severe thunderstorms to imminent flooding were on the board at the same time.  Wow!  The storms have passed us by, and we’re just fine, but we’re getting a bit weary of having to dodge such severe weather every few weeks.

It's Headed Right Toward Us!

Wow!  Six Alerts for Us!

It's Carnival Time

So as not to keep you in suspense one minute longer, I’m excited to report that Tim and I did everything tonight that we missed out on last night.  Hard to believe, but true!  We had a wonderful dinner this evening at a restaurant serving authentic Creole and Cajun dishes. We then participated in our first Carnival parade and have quite a collection of beads to show for it.  Now, I’ll tell you a little more about how it all unfolded.

Our campground in New Orleans is located just a block from St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, and we started our day there.  Cemetery tours are especially popular in New Orleans, since cemeteries in New Orleahere ns are unique in that all of the tombs are aboveground.  We just decided to wander through on our own.  It almost felt like walking through a miniature city, and a spooky one at that, particularly when we happened upon a crypt with offerings laid in front.  The tomb of the city’s most famous Voodoo Queen had to be the most-photographed of the bunch.  Tim claims we only went to the cemetery because his sister Alice got us started looking for dead people when we were in Kentucky.  True or not, I’m just glad we went.

City of the Dead

Offerings to the Voodoo Queen

One of the prettiest places in New Orleans is St. Charles Avenue and its adjacent neighborhoods, and the best part is that the historic St. Charles Avenue streetcar will take you there.  We took the streetcar all the way to Audubon Park and then started walking.  We passed by the gated entrance to one of the city’s most exclusive neighborhoods, Audubon Place, with its fabulous historic houses.  We walked by Loyola University and wandered into Tulane.  Just as Tim asked what Tulane is noted for, he looked at a map and found we were standing in front of the Anthropology Building.  Maybe the archeologist in him just knew it was there.

St. Charles Avenue Streetcar

Gateway to Audubon Place

One of the Houses in Audubon Place

Anthropology Building at Tulane University

Loyola University

Mardi Gras parades in New Orleans travel down St. Charles Avenue, and we saw people already staking out their spots for the parades this evening.  Chairs, tarps and ladders lined the avenue.  Maybe I just haven’t attended many parades in recent years, but the ladders were a surprise.  Some even had a seat attached to the top to make viewing that much more comfortable.  We saw evidence everywhere of the beads that had been thrown the night before.  I wonder if someone cleans up the ones that end up hanging from trees and power lines.

Ready to Watch the Parade

We returned to the French Quarter to attend a jazz concert at the Old U.S. Mint Performance Hall.  As it turned out, we probably heard more jazz at several impromptu street performances than we would at the Mint.  The New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park sponsors daily concerts, and the one this afternoon was to feature works by some of the rangers.  Unfortunately, the main performer was off today, so the lone ranger who showed up mostly gave us a talk on the history of jazz, illustrated by a few bars or songs on the guitar.  The park has some very talented rangers on staff, and Tim and I both had such a great time today and yesterday chatting with several of them.

A Musical Ranger

Street Performers

We had an early dinner at The Praline Connection, a restaurant off the beaten track that serves authentic Cajun and Creole dishes.  Tim and I shared the “Taste of Soul” platter, which was divine.  The gumbo, jambalaya, fried chicken, catfish, ribs, red beans and rice, greens, cornbread and bread pudding were delicious.  But the best part of the meal was chatting with our server and the large, extended family that arrived shortly after we were seated.  The ladies who sat closest to us had arrived in New Orleans for a baptism, and they were such a hoot.

The weather had held up for the day, and we wondered whether the predicted thunderstorms would rain on tonight’s Mardi Gras parades.  Should we attend?  Were we too tired?  In the end Tim made the decision that we should just go.  We walked over to Canal Street and waited with several hundred other people for over an hour for the parade to arrive.  Once the parade began, we had a blast.

We discovered that “crowd participation” parades are much more fun than just watching floats go by.  As you probably know, float riders in Mardi Gras parades throw scores of beads, cups and other baubles to the crowd.  Tim and I found ourselves getting caught up in the action, vying to catch the beads that were being tossed from the floats.  Tim even accused me of being too greedy!  He was probably right!

Arms Outstretched to Catch the Throws

Please Throw One to Me

The parade we watched was put on by the Knights of Babylon.  The floats were very traditional in design and have changed little in more than seventy years.  The floats were just beautiful, although it was a bit difficult to appreciate their elaborate designs while focusing on catching the throws.


Long Live the Queen

Beautiful Floats

Although there were two more parades to come, we decided to call it an evening and returned to the RV with our loot – scores of beads and a cup.  We may never make it to Mardi Gras again, but I’m so glad we bit the bullet and enjoyed the party this time.

Some of Our Loot

Dressed for Carnival

Some People Just Don't Know When to Call It Quits