Flaming Gorge

We took the day off yesterday and hung out at our campground overlooking Flaming Gorge Reservoir.  It was very hot, with the temperature reaching 93°, and there was very little shade to shield us from the scorching sun.  We learned that several cities in eastern Utah actually broke temperature records yesterday.  We still had a good day and enjoyed watching the pronghorn that frequent the campground.  Our camp host informed us that it is the pronghorn that own the campground.  They graciously allow us to camp there.  How nice of them.

Just Make Yourself at Home

Are You Coming to See Me?

Kitty didn’t seem to mind the heat, and Tim discovered a great brushing station.  The new grill stand seems to have been placed at the campsite just for that purpose.  Tim got a few strange looks, but several dog owners wanted to book an appointment with him.

This Is the Life!

We awoke this morning to another hot day.  On top of that high wind warnings were posted throughout eastern Utah.  We coped with winds of 25-40 miles per hour and wind gusts of 55-65 miles per hour for most of the day.  We tried, but could not escape the wind or the heat.

Although we didn’t feel like spending much time outside, we were lucky enough to be driving the Flaming Gorge-Uintas National Scenic Byway the entire day.  What a spectacular drive.  The theme of the byway is “Wildlife Through the Ages” since the route travels through one of the richest areas for wildlife and fossils in the west.  Markers along the entire length of the byway identify the various geologic formations, the time periods and the types of animals and plants that were discovered.

Geological Markers Along the Byway

Color Along the Scenic Byway

As we left the desert-like area near our campground, we climbed high into the eastern flank of the Uinta Mountains at over 8,000 feet in elevation.  Along the way we marveled at unique geologic features, deep multi-colored canyons, breathtaking scenic vistas and dark green forest landscapes.  Talk about “eye candy.”  I think this drive may make my “top ten” list.

Sheep Creek Bay Sits along the Scenic Byway

The Colors of the Cliffs Are Amazing

The Vista from Sheep Creek Overlook Took My Breath Away

Much of the drive passes through Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, and we now understand how this gorge received its name.  Flaming Gorge has to be one of the most aptly named landscapes in the country.  The colors of the cliffs and canyons are indeed “flaming.” 

Flaming Gorge seems to be one of the lesser known of all the west’s national recreation areas.  Today we had the area almost to ourselves, and we understand that it never gets too busy, even in the height of the summer.

We made a detour to reach one of the most photogenic sections of the gorge, Red Canyon, which was carved by the mighty Green River.  We walked along the Red Canyon Rim Trail and looked down 1,400 feet into Flaming Gorge Reservoir.  The contrast between the red of the cliffs, the blue of the water and the green of the trees was simply breathtaking.

The View into Red Canyon Is Stunning

The Red Canyon Rim Trail Provides Awesome Views

After leaving Flaming Gorge we traveled down through countless geologic layers of time on our way to the Uintah Basin of Utah.  This section of the road is infamous for its steep descent and series of nine tortuous switchbacks.  Although the views were spectacular, the wind made for extremely dangerous driving for high profile vehicles.  We were shocked to see a tractor trailer that had rolled over along one of the curves.  Hopefully the driver escaped with few injuries. 

What a Scary Sight!

Descending into the Uintah Basin

Tim on the other hand did a masterful job of controlling the RV, and we arrived safely at Steinaker Lake State Park near Vernal, Utah.

Along the Water at Steinaker State Park

Another Waterfront Site

Paradise in the Pacific Northwest

The San Juan Islands are often referred to as Paradise in the Pacific Northwest.  Tim and I found out why during our brief two-day visit to San Juan Island, the largest of the four islands served by the Washington State Ferries.  There are actually 172 named islands in the San Juans, and these islands are a world apart.  The San Juans are known for both their natural attractions and their distinctive island experiences. 

The ferry deposited us in Friday Harbor, the largest town on San Juan Island.  It’s a quaint seaport town that seems to thrive on the ferry traffic that inundates the town on weekends.  Although the town offers everything a visitor to the islands may be looking for, it is not too touristy.  We were happy to find a local hangout where we enjoyed fresh fish and scallops.

Arriving in Friday Harbor

There is even a national park on San Juan Island.  San Juan Island National Historical Park tells the story of a little-known episode in American history often dubbed the Pig War.  During the mid-nineteenth century, the ownership of the San Juan Islands was undetermined, with both the United States and Great Britain claiming title.  The two countries almost went to war when an American farmer killed a British pig.  Cooler heads prevailed, however, and the two nations resolved the dispute peacefully without resorting to violence.  Now isn’t that a great lesson to teach at a park?

We relived the Pig War on the self-guided history walk around the former American Camp.  We walked through the parade ground where two original buildings are preserved, and we also admired the beautiful views of the Strait of San Juan de Fuca and Griffin Bay across one of this region’s last remaining natural prairies.  Even Mount Baker was visible in the distance. 

Parade Ground at American Camp

Prairie Landscape at American Camp

Jakles Lagoon at American Camp

Lighthouse at Cattle Point

We wanted to see more of the island, so we drove to the west side where we encountered pastoral landscapes and more stunning water views.  We stopped at San Juan County Park where we had planned to camp.  I guess our luck had to run out sometime, however.  For the first time on our trip, we were turned away.  We missed the last RV site by five minutes!  It would have been a great site with water views through the trees, but we were able to find another campground not too far away.

Roche Harbor is the other town on San Juan Island, and it is a quaint, historic seaside village.  We visited the town this morning, and I actually thought it was more interesting than Friday Harbor.  It was surprising to find the ruins of several structures associated with the area’s lime kiln history preserved as part of the landscape.  The arts are also a big deal here, and a large sculpture park on the edge of the village intersperses rotating sculptures with a nature display.  Hopefully, all of the ongoing development we saw will not destroy the unique character that makes Roche Harbor special.

Roche Harbor

Remains of the Lime Kiln Industry

Sculpture Garden

One of the favorite springtime activities in the San Juans is a whale watching tour.  We arrived back in Friday Harbor before noon, just in time to get on one of the boats.  It was cold and damp today, and I was glad we could sit inside the boat to watch for the marine mammals that frequent the area.  On our three hour tour, we saw harbor porpoises, sea lions and, finally, a pod of minke whales.  These whales are relatively small and stay underwater for a long time, so they are often harder to spot than the larger orca whales.  We did have a fun time trying to guess where the minkes would surface, and we watched for them for quite a while.  We never did see the resident orcas that live in the San Juans year-round, so we got a rain check for a future whale watching tour.  I guess that means we’ll have to come back to the San Juan Islands.  I wouldn’t object to that.

All Aboard for a Whale Watching Adventure

Sea Lions Basking on the Rocks

Minke Whale Surfacing for Just a Second or Two

Tim and I had debated about whether to stay in the San Juans and visit another island, but we decided we’d better return to the mainland.  We found out just how difficult it can be to catch the ferry on the weekend when we were informed that the 4:15 pm ferry was full.  We would have to wait for the 6:25 pm instead.  We took advantage of our extra time in Friday Harbor by visiting the whale museum where we learned more about these majestic creatures than we ever thought possible. 

The best part about having to wait for the later ferry was being put at the front of the line.  We ended up in the front row on the ferry with an unobstructed view of the water and passing islands.  How cool was that!  Parked next to us was a couple with a yellow cat that had made his home on the dashboard.  Kitty eyed him, but decided she really wasn’t interested.

We Were First to Board the Ferry

The View of the Islands and Passing Ferry Would Have Been Better
If It Hadn't Been Raining

Who's That Kitty Watching Me?

Maybe Port Townsend Is a Possibility

Our plan for today was to explore Port Townsend in the morning and then catch the 12:45 pm ferry for Whidbey Island.  It didn’t work out that way.

We did spend the morning driving through the residential neighborhoods of Port Townsend.  The town is characterized by an assortment of Victorian houses, from small cottages to impressive mansions.  Many of the houses have commanding views of the water. We returned to the downtown area where we walked the streets and stopped for lunch.  Tim commented that he had a really good feeling about the town, so we decided that it might be a good idea to stick around and learn a bit more about it.  We cancelled our ferry reservations and returned to the RV park to secure a spot for another night.  Luckily, we will once again be able to enjoy the gorgeous view of the water.

The Ferry Left Without Us

We spent the afternoon further exploring the town.  Port Townsend has a lot to offer and possesses many of the qualities we’re looking for in a place to live, even though it is quite small.  Maybe it should be on our short list. 


Some Houses Have Great Views

Porches Are a Great Place to Hang Out

Victorian Details Add Interest

Even the Cottages Are Cute

A Grand Courthouse Looms over the Town

This weekend Port Townsend celebrates its annual Rhododendron Festival.  The town is noted for its many festivals, and what’s interesting is that the celebrations last for several days.  There is not just one grand parade, but also smaller parades that precede the main event.  This afternoon was the pet parade!  Kitty didn’t want to march in the parade, but Tim and I went and had fun seeing all of the animals.  Even though we missed the actual parade, we saw the many dogs, bunnies, a mouse and other assorted critters, many of whom were dressed up for the occasion.

Nice Flowers!

There Are Bunnies in That Cage

All Dressed Up

We walked back through town and decided that we really liked it here.  Who knows whether Port Townsend might work for us, but it’s fun to think about the possibilities.

The Reason for the Festival

Spring into Rhody

From the Mountains to the Sea

Olympic National Park is a large park, and it takes a bit of time to explore its three “faces” since the distances between them are fairly large.  We had already covered the coast and the forests, so today we headed for the mountains.  The road to Hurricane Ridge is open almost every day of the year and leads to the top of the Olympic Mountains.  The expansive view down toward the Strait of Juan de Fuca was a bit hazy today, but the glacier-covered peaks were beautiful.  

Glacier-Covered Olympic Mountains

As we climbed higher, we passed through sub-alpine tundra on our way to Hurricane Ridge at 5,242 feet in elevation.  Deep snowbanks on the side of the road greeted us one more time.  The mountains here and in the Cascade Range are still buried in the white stuff, and people were still exploring the area in snowshoes.  All I cared about was admiring the views of the adjacent peaks, however.

Snow Still Covers Hurricane Ridge

The View from Hurricne Ridge

Before we left Olympic National Park, we met a former colleague who worked with Tim at Rocky Mountain National Park.  Rainey and her husband had just moved to Olympic National Park, and we were anxious to hear about her new job.  By chance, we had seen her name last week on a television news ticker.  Rainey is now the Public Information Officer for Olympic National Park and had been quoted about the status of a hiker who had been lost for several days, but ultimately found.  It was so nice to see how well she’s doing in this beautiful place.

We left the park behind and drove to Port Townsend, a quaint town that has done a wonderful job of preserving its heritage.  Port Townsend is one of the finest examples of a Victorian seaport in the country.  The downtown is lively, although its sidewalks are under construction, and interesting shops and restaurants are located here.  We’ll explore the town in the morning.

Downtown Port Townsend

Downtown Port Townsend

We’re checked into an RV park that is adjacent to the local marina and is operated by the Port of Port Townsend.  We are within walking distance of downtown, but best of all, we have an unobstructed view of Admiralty Inlet.  Waterfront sites just can’t be beat!  I think we’re getting spoiled.

We Just Loved Our View!

Kitty Liked It Too!

A Sapphire Crescent

Have you ever been to a place that immediately transports you to a peaceful state as soon as you set foot on the property?  A place where you can breathe deeply and put the rest of the world behind you?  Lake Crescent is one of those places for me.  I still have vivid memories of my first visit to Lake Crescent more than twenty years ago, and I was very anxious to return on this trip.

Lake Crescent is a deep, freshwater lake that was carved by glaciers, and it is one of the prettiest lakes in the country in my humble opinion.  There are lots of beautiful lakes, but there is just something about Lake Crescent that speaks to me.  Perhaps it’s the lake’s brilliant blue color and exceptional clarity, its setting among giant fir and hemlock trees or the fact that mountains surround it on all sides.  Perhaps it’s the lake’s relative isolation and the fact that it’s not too large.  Whatever it is, I’m not the only one who feels this way.  Descriptions of Lake Crescent from the early twentieth century refer to it as the “Gem of the Olympics.”

Lake Crescent

A Peaceful Place

Lake Crescent Lodge sits directly on Lake Crescent, and this alone makes it one of my favorite national park lodges.  The lodge is not grand like many national park lodges.  The architecture here is much simpler.  It almost has a residential feel with its shingle siding, cozy sun porch and small, intimate dining room overlooking the lake.  There aren’t too many people milling around the lodge, at least this time of year, which also adds to the serene, low-key atmosphere.

Approaching Lake Crescent Lodge - The Lake Is on the Right

Lake Crescent Lodge Sits Directly on the Lake

The Cozy Sun Porch Is a Favorite Spot

Tim indulged my wishes one more time with a two-night stay at Lake Crescent Lodge.  I’ve learned over the years that you need at least two nights (and preferably many more) in any favorite spot.  By staying two nights you can enjoy one entire day at the property.  A one night stay just doesn’t cut it.  Although I love to stay at national park lodges, I have learned this past year that most are not pet-friendly.  We were therefore surprised to find that the lodges in Olympic National Park allow pets in certain rooms, so we snagged one of the Singer Cottages at Lake Crescent Lodge.

We had delicious meals in the dining room where we enjoyed talking with the young servers.  Fresh sockeye salmon, scallops and risotto with Dungeness crab more than satisfied our seafood craving.  Marionberry crumble and bread pudding satisfied our sweet tooth.  We continue to be impressed with the quality of food at most national park lodges. The dining experience has improved dramatically over the last decade, and many lodges, like this one, emphasize fresh, local products and focus on regional cuisines.

Sockeye Salmon

Scallops on a Bed of Risotto

The weather was divine, just like the food.  The skies were mostly sunny, and it was just a bit cool in the shade but warm in the sun.  We spent much of the day simply sitting in inviting chairs on the lawn next to the lake.  We also took advantage of the rocking chairs on our own porch, where we read and looked out at the lake through the trees.  We couldn’t have had a more relaxing day.

A Perfect Setting for Relaxation

We weren’t complete sloths, however.  Tim decided to rent a kayak to explore the lake, but I had to decline.  I’ve never been in a kayak, I can’t swim, and I felt it unwise for my first experience to be in a glacier-fed lake that’s 624 feet deep.  I did want to be around to finish the trip.  Tim, however, had a great time.  We even tried to entice Kitty into the kayak, but she wanted no part of it.   I think we terrorized her that afternoon - she didn’t even like being on the pier.  Kitty did have fun chasing the resident ducks and spent quite a bit of time dozing in the grass.

Tim Is Off!

How Great for Tim to be Out on the Lake

Kitty Wanted No Part of the Pier

Kitty Did Like the Ducks

Two of the Resident Ducks

I couldn’t have asked for a nicer visit and hope that I don’t have to wait another twenty years to return.