Archives and Poppies

Tim and I had considered trying to extend our stay in Yosemite National Park, but the weather forecast put a damper on this idea.  A Pacific storm was on the way, and rain and snow in some areas was forecast for Wednesday.  We therefore reluctantly decided to stick with our original plan and left the park today. 

We took our time on the way out and stopped several times to savor one last look at the valley and its granite walls.  Bridalveil Fall, which flows all year, was our last stop, and it was fun to get close to the base and get sprayed with the blowing mist.

Granite Walls and the Merced River Define Yosemite Valley

El Capitan

Bridalveil Fall

Blowing Mist from Bridalveil Fall

The drive out of the park on Highway 140 was especially pretty, and it followed the Merced River as it rushed down to the town of El Portal.  Here we made a stop at the Yosemite archives and met with Brenna, the park archivist.  It just so happens that Tim had hired Brenna when he worked at Pecos National Historical Park.  Brenna explained the operation in Yosemite, and she gave us a tour of the archives.  We were able to take a peek at early ranger logs, correspondence from the park concessionaire and the original master plan for Yosemite Valley.  There are such fascinating things that are safeguarded in the archives at every park.

Tim and I also took the opportunity to discuss possible volunteer opportunities at Yosemite after Tim retires.  It would be wonderful to spend a chunk of time in the park and really get to know it. , while at the same time helping with projects that the park might otherwise not be able to accomplish.  Maybe I will even see if there is something I can help with in the next few years.

The scenic drive after we left El Portal was even more spectacular.  The redbuds were blooming along the Merced River, and the hillsides were carpeted with orange poppies.  What an amazing sight.  We were so lucky to be able to take this ride at the height of wildflower season.

Redbuds Are Blooming

Redbuds Along the Merced River

Hillsides of Poppies

Poppies Along the Merced River

More Orange Hillsides

What a Sight to See

I Couldn't Stop Taking Photos of the Poppies

When we turned north onto Highway 49, we were in gold rush country in the foothills of the Sierra.  The road twisted and turned as it climbed and descended hill after hill.  It was quite the rollercoaster ride.  The views were spectacular, however, and the small towns were charming.

The View from Highway 49

Mountain Views

Bush Lupines Line the Highway

Exploring Yosemite

Ever since arriving in Yosemite National Park, Kitty has been very busy.  She has taken it upon herself to be the watch cat for bears.  Bear safety is a huge concern in the park, and proper food storage is strongly enforced here, particularly around the campgrounds.  Kitty has been on high alert and can’t seem to settle down for her usual naps.  Alas, Tim and I haven’t seen any bears yet, only a few deer.  Wildlife sightings have been scarce, at least to the folks we’ve spoken to.

I Really Need a Nap

We took the shuttle to the visitor center this morning to check out the exhibits and get my passport stamp.  To reduce traffic and pollution in Yosemite Valley, the National Park Service operates a free shuttle that runs every ten to twenty minutes.  Most of the buses are electric/diesel hybrids.  How nice to just park the RV and leave the driving to someone else.

Following our exceptional dinner at the Ahwahnee last night, we made reservations to return for lunch today.  We had another memorable meal, with both of us enjoying the chicken and pasta entrees.  Then there was dessert (there always seems to be dessert!).  The pistachio gelato was some of the best I’ve ever had.

Pistachio Gelato with a Marble Cookie Tuile

We had time to explore the public spaces at the Ahwahnee today and wander around the grounds.  The Ahwahnee opened its doors in 1927 and was built at the urging of Stephen T. Mather, the first director of the National Park Service.  Mather aggressively promoted the national parks and felt that a world-class hotel would attract people of influence and money.  Mather believed that if these people could appreciate Yosemite in its natural state they would be moved to obtain support and funding for his new agency. 

The hotel, designed by Gilbert Stanley Underwood, is an outstanding example of National Park Service rustic architecture and harmonizes beautifully with its setting.  Grand public spaces include the dining room and a lounge that features walk-in fireplaces at each end. 

The Ahwahnee Is a National Historic Landmark



The Grand Lounge

The Mural Room

My only disappointment in traveling with Kitty is that we cannot spend the night at national park lodges.  I love the history and architecture of these lodges and have stayed at many of them in the past.  It would have been nice to share old favorites with Tim and to experience new ones.  But I can’t have everything and have to admit that I’ve really enjoyed camping in the parks.

We continued our exploration of the park after lunch and visited the Yosemite Museum, which is devoted to the park’s Native American heritage.  The design and size of some of the woven baskets on display was remarkable.  We met with the park’s museum registrar, and she and Tim compared notes.  Tim also ran into one of his former interns, who now works at Yosemite.  It’s a small world in the National Park Service.

We ended our day with a hike to Yosemite Falls, one of the iconic waterfalls in the park and the tallest waterfall in North America.  There is an upper and lower fall, and both were flowing furiously today.  Spring is the perfect time of year to view the falls, as most will be dry by summer.  People can’t seem to resist crawling around the boulders at the base of the falls, and in the snow that is still on the ground.  Let’s hope there won’t be any accidents today.

Upper and Lower Yosemite Falls

Sarah and Tim at Lower Yosemite Falls

Lower Yosemite Fall

Upper Yosemite Fall





Half Dome



A Special Place

Yosemite National Park is special.  It’s one of my favorite places on earth, and it touches me in a way I can’t quite explain.  Perhaps John Muir stated it best, “It is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter.”  To me it seemed particularly fitting to enter Yosemite on Easter Sunday.  Too many years have passed since I was last here, and I was so excited to return today and share Yosemite with Tim.

We arrived via the south entrance and made our way towards the Mariposa Grove, the park’s largest grouping of giant sequoias.  At least 500 of these amazing trees grow here, and we took the trail to see some of the most famous ones.  These trees are the largest of all living things and seem to symbolize survival against all odds.  They are so majestic, and it’s hard to contemplate that some are more than 2,000 years old.

The Grizzly Giant, perhaps the most famous of all the giant sequoias in the park, measures 96 feet in circumference and 27.6 feet in diameter at its base, and it is the tree that everyone wants to see.  I can certainly understand why.  We also admired the Bachelor and Three Graces, the Fallen Monarch and the California Tunnel Tree on our hike. 

The Base of the Grizzly Giant

The Grizzly Giant

Bachelor and Three Graces

 

Sarah at the Fallen Monarch

Tunnel trees were an early form of tourism promotion, and visitors lined up to drive through them.  My mother often recalled driving through one of the tunnel trees when she visited the park in the 1940s.  Obviously cutting a hole in the base of a giant sequoia is a practice that is frowned upon today, but I’m secretly pleased that one of these trees survives for us to see.

Tim at the California Tunnel Tree

The Mariposa Grove is particularly significant to the National Park Service, and images of giant sequoia cones are embossed on belts and hatbands worn by national park rangers.  The cone is a symbol of the preservation of this special place.

Belt Worn by National Park Rangers

These Giant Sequoias Are Just Babies

The Mariposa Grove is located near Wawona, a historic community that preserves many of its pioneer buildings.  The Wawona Hotel, one of the park’s historic lodging options, is a charming place and we explored the lobby.

Wawona Hotel

As much as I enjoy the southern part of the park, it is Yosemite Valley that draws me in.  Catching my first glimpse of Half Dome, El Capitan and Bridalveil Falls spread out before me was just as breathtaking today as the first time I saw it.  I stood and stared and probably shed a few tears.  It’s that beautiful to me.  I hoped that Tim would find it to be just as special.

No Photo Can Capture the Grandure of Yosemite Valley

We drove through the valley, and I resisted the urge to ask Tim to pull over so I could photograph each spectacular sight.  Instead, we headed for our campground and settled in.  The campgrounds in Yosemite Valley are nestled among pine trees and are very scenic.  Although there are no hookups, we are prepared for a couple of days.

Our Campsite

We had early dinner reservations at the Ahwahnee, one of my favorite national park lodges.  The dining room at the Ahwahnee imposes a dress code, one of the few lodges to do so.  We didn’t mind, however.  It was actually a treat to dress up for a change and leave our hiking and traveling clothes behind.

Not only is the food at the Ahwahnee superb, but the experience of dining there is just as wonderful.  The dining room is a spectacular space that originally seated 350 guests.  The magnificent views beyond the floor-to-ceiling windows provide a scenic backdrop to this elegant hall.  We started the evening with a delicious country pate appetizer.  My entrée was haddock, and it was one of the best entrees I’ve had in recent memory.  Tim’s steelhead trout was just as good.  We shared a wonderful cream brulee trio for dessert, and the pistachio was especially good.  All in all, it was a memorable evening and satisfying in so many ways.

The Ahwahnee Dining Room

The Grand Window View

Doesn't Tim Look Nice?

My Halibut

Tim's Steelhead Trout

Creme Brulee Trio